Kathmandu Tourism - Travel to Kathmandu
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| Buddhist Temple of Bodnath, Kathmandu |
Kathmandu is the largest city and capital of Nepal.
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Get into Kathmandu
Kathmandu airport is the largest, and only international, airport in Nepal. Visas are available on arrival for citizens of most countries. In April of 2004 the cost is $30 for 60 days. Other options for arriving in Kathmandu include buses from India (usually Varanasi or Lucknow) and other parts of Nepal such as Chitwan National Park and the trekking hub of Pokhara. You can enter from Mahendranagar at the extreme East, but you need a visa before hand. Other options for entry into Nepal are limited.
See Kathmandu
- Bodhnath Stupa - the spiritual heart of vajrayana Buddhism in the city. The stupa is especially spectacular at night when adorned with candles. Remember to walk around it clockwise, spin the prayer wheels clockwise, with your right hand. Have tea on the roof of a tall restaurant beside it and enjoy the views.
- Swayambu temple - the "Monkey Temple" great views over the city. 25 mins. walk from Thamel. Pay a fee to enter at the front steps or slip in free on the ramp on the south side.
- Durbar Squares - Kathmandu ancient square with palaces and temples. Enter from Freak street side for free. Magical in the very early morning. Be sure to explore the surrounding, nontouristic streets.
- Kumari Palace- home of "the Kumari", or living goddess, a young girl. South side of Durbar sq., KTM
- Giant Fruit Bats- Hanging out in the daytime like black umbrellas in the trees around the King's palace, fruitbats, 'flying foxes', with wingspans up to a meter across leave their trees and disperse mostly to the west, over Thamel, from twilight to darkness, passing over the many open rooftops of Kathmandu's guesthouses. Go up to your roof and enjoy a nice, dusty sunset and stay for the bat flyby. Robin-sized bugbats are also common.
Do Kathmandu
- Festivals
- Ashrams
- Parties "The Last Resort", near the Tibetan border, has frequent Full Moon Trance Parties, lasting 2-3 days. Watch for posters, check music shops or ask an Israeli.
Buy
- Silver Note that jewellers from Bangkok come to Kathmandu to buy wholesale silver with Indian-processed semiprecious gemstones. The wholesale price of silver is published on the front page of the "Himalayan" newspaper (1 tola= 11.6 gm)so buyers can get an idea of the metal cost of the piece, apart from the labor cost. Silver is almost invariably near the stamped "92.5%" sterling, as claimed.
- Clothing Kathmandu is a great place to shop for clothes. Flowing hippie gauzes, Monk's robes in saffrons and maroons, funky neon trancewear, dozens of elegant silks and 'suiting and shirting' are available in all qualities and prices. Tailors can be hired at reasonable fees and quality is high. Handwoven Nepali fabrics are $1-3/m and available in endless patterns and colors. Anything, from bags to mountaineering equipment to cocktail dresses can be made to order and tailored to perfection. The alleys around Indra Chowk, between Thamel and Durbar sq., have dozens of fabric shops and tailors, much more dedicated to customer satisfaction than the hurried and expensive shops in Thamel. Warning: If having clothes made to wear later at home, get measured BEFORE trekking, if you want them to fit when you return to your normal size!
- Cultural artifacts Be advised that there are a lot of counterfeits, sly salesmen, and plastics presented as wood. Most real antiques are illegal to export. Genuine antiquities may have been looted from temples. Patan, sister city of Kathmandu, is known for the quality of her bronzes. Read "Shopping for Buddhas" available in book stores, if you are.
- Cameras A lot of people find Kathmandu a good place to buy a camera. There are shops in Thamel, and around New Road.
Books
- New - Pilgrims in Thamel (next to the Kathmandu Guesthouse) is the largest and most well established English language bookshop in Kathmandu. They have great sections on Buddhism (a whole room devoted to vajrayana), as well as an encyclopedic selection on books devoted to subjects on Nepal. Customers are invited to take an on-sale book into the restaurant for a free read. Tibet Book Store, Thamel (on the road leading in from the palace) - good selection of books on vajrayana and Tibet studies.
- Second Hand - The alleys of Thamel are full of second hand book shops. Check around for a good price, as they do vary immensely. Return read books for 50% buyback or store credit.
Coffee
Nepal is also a coffee producing country, though the people are famously tea drinkers. Most often coffee comes as a dishwater-colored cup of instant, however, good coffee IS available. The first thing to remember is that people who don't drink coffee don't understand coffee. When ordering, try ordering "Strong coffee", as opposed to just "Coffee", to minimise those dishwater blues. Places to look for ground coffee, either drip or espresso, are:- Just Juice and Shakes. Coffee drinks, espresso, Cappuccino, and juice and shakes, sweet rolls, etc., too. See 'Eat' below for location.
- Java. Everything you ever wanted in a coffee shop, great coffees, meals, deserts, newspapers, sofas, even a guitar on the wall that says, "Play me!" Meet the teenage elite of Kathmandu here. Upstairs, the last building on the left as you leave Thamel heading for the Royal Palace.
Eat - Travel to Kathmandu
Traditional Tibetan dumpings, momos have been borrowed to become tourist tapas. Try them fried or steamed stuffed with buffalo, chicken, or veggies with a Tuborg or San Miguel beer. In a local place expect to pay 25 rs for a dozen momos, 45-65rs in a tourist place.There are dozens of tourist restaurants clustered in the Thamel district serving everying from Middle Eastern to Mexican food. Indian and Nepali dishes are always the best tasting-- and best priced. Don't hesitate to state your preference for spiciness. A good place to sample Korean food. Travellers who venture into smaller places are often rewarded with better prices and friendlier staff. Inspect your bill and count your change at the places frequented by short trip tourists.
- Tashi Delek. Tibetan restaurant with extensive menu and good Mexican/ Italian dishes. Good prices. Open late. Across the street from the postcard shop, near hotbreads corner.
- Northfield Cafe. Basic pub grub and Nepali attempt at Mexican. Popular with English teachers and Peace Corps.
- Third Eye. Thai food in a nice building and outdoor garden.
- Green Ice. Amazingly good Indian cuisine, Thamel Chowk upstairs with the green windows overlooking "Kukuri Crossroads".
- Just Juice and Shakes. Popular with Israleis and Longtimers. Great coffees and , yes, juices and shakes. Two eggs on toast: 20rs. 10m down the alley across the street from the music shop, near Pilgrim's bookstore curve.
- Everest Steak House. Traditional pre-or post-trekking feast: Massive steaks cooked just right, about 300rs will stuff you.
Outside Thamel
Yes, there is a whole world waiting outside Thamel!- Freak street has a few good eats, too, such as the Ganesh restaurant halfway along the street next to a small shrine.
- Angan (on the corner behind the King's statue roundabout) A great place to have sanitary ice cream, Nepali traditional sweets, or try out a delicious freshly prepared Masala Dosa (curry in a crisp savory crepe, 55-65rs.) or other South Indian food alongside Kathmandu's Bourgoisie. Sweets in the front, Fastfood restaurant in the back. This is the heart of the Nepalis' upmarket shopping district, where New Road and Dharma Path meet. Walk west from here on the pedestrian street to Freak st., the outdoor craft market, the old 'Red Palace', and the many temples of Durbar square.
Drink
Beer and mixed drinks are available at almost every bar and restaurant. For a quick drink and cheap cultural experience try the local 'Nepali wine' (raksi) or 'Nepali Beer' (chang) neither of which taste anything like their namesakes. Ask for these at local places.
- Sam's.
- Maya Cocktail Bar. 2-for-1 specials on mixed drinks at happy hour, 4-8pm.
- Maya Pub. Laid back sports bar version of Cocktail Bar. Free popcorn and 2-for-1 happy hour drinks.
- Euro Rock. Pool hall and pub popular with Peace Corps volunteers and long time ex-pats.
- Jump Club. Locals and ex-pats as well as tourist crowd; one of the few dance clubs in Kathmandu.
- Fire Club. Another dance club, uninspired DJ or a two-year-old tape? Upstairs from the "Irish Pub" near Hotbreads corner.
- Tongues and Tales. Chilled, smoke-friendly cocktail bar with comfortable seating and good music. Upstairs, (look for the sign at the doorway) halfway downhill on the road between Hot Breads corner and Steak House street. A good place to hear about parties.
Sleep - Kathmandu Tourism
Virtually all tourist accommodations are located in Thamel, near the Kathmandu Guesthouse. Upscale hotels tend to be a few blocks away on Tri Devi Marg near the Royal Palace. A few die-hard places still remain on Freak Street below Durbar Square. Prices range from $1 - $350 for a double room.
Budget
- The Star. Made famous among travellers and expats in the book "Escape from Kathmandu" but otherwise your basic budget accommodations. Double and single rooms with or without private bathrooms. Friendly staff. Mail drop for repeat/longterm clients. Gate locks around midnight. $2-$5.
- Cozy Corner. Just next door to the Star. A very basic double room with shared bathroom and cold shower. Safety deposit boxes at the front desk. No lock out time. $1-$5.
- Thorong Peak, Thamel (997-1-4253458).Rooms for 250 Rs. (Double) and up. You get much more than in other geust houses for that price.
Mid-range
- The Garuda - Private bathrooms, sheets, towels, etc. Some rooms with AC and balconies. Located near Kathmandu Guest House, Thamel. $10-$25
- Kathmandu Guesthouse, Thamel.
- Rabsel Guesthouse - (4479009) in the grounds of Shechen Monastery in Boudha has clean and good quality rooms with private bathrooms for about US$15. The guesthouse also has garden with restaurant/coffee shop facilities, and is within a five minute walk of Bodnath Stupa.
Splurge
- Kathmandu Hyatt. Actually a few miles outside of town in Bodhnath. A lovely building in the traditional Newari style with swimming pool, spa, and several restaurants.
- Hotel d'Annapurna. Four-star international hotel with all the amenities. Located off Durbar Marg.
