San Francisco/Mission District
The Mission District of San Francisco -- often just called "The Mission" -- is the oldest part of that City, and a center of its counterculture.
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Understand
The Mission District surrounds the oldest building in San Francisco, Mission Dolores. The area was the site of the Spanish mission that was the kernel of the city San Francisco is today. The mission itself was secularized in the 1820s, and the lands were given to the Native Americans who lived there. Many sold or lost the land in later years.
During the 19th century, the Mission was physically separate from San Francisco proper, which mostly clustered around the seaport on the San Francisco Bay. The Mission area was a pleasant country day trip for San Franciscans, and soon grew into a small village. By the end of the 1800s, the area had been assimilated into the rest of the City.
In the early 20th century, the Mission District was a mostly Irish neighborhood, but gradually became more populated with Mexican and Latin-American immigrants. Although much of the culture of the Mission remains strongly Latino, an influx of artists, musicians, and other counterculture types began in the 1980s and early 1990s, driven by the relatively cheap rents in the neighborhood.
The Mission saw increased gentrification during the late 1990s, as more expensive restaurants and "live-work" spaces moved in to the area. Post-Internet-boom, the wave of affluence is partly receding, but yuppies, hipsters, and Latino residents continue to live side-by-side.
Get in
From other parts of San Francisco and the Bay Area, the BART stations at 24th Street and 16th Street are the easiest entry points.
The 14 Mission bus runs right down Mission Street from the east and west, the 49 Van Ness comes down to Mission Street from Van Ness near Fisherman's Wharf, the 26 Valencia eases down Valencia Avenue from downtown, the 22 Fillmore comes in from the north and runs east-west across 16th Street, and the 48 runs east west along 24th Street.
The J Church Muni trolley runs from downtown through the nearby Castro, Dolores Park, and Noe Valley neighborhoods, and passes block or two from the Mission Dolores that gives the neighborhood its name, and puts you within walking distance or easy transfer to the 22 or 48 bus lines.
For cars, the Cesar Chavez Street exit from highway 101 comes right into the Mission, and the San Jose Avenue exit from Highway 280 North brings you past Bernal Heights and onto Guerrero Avenue.
Get around
The Mission is only about 20 blocks by 10 blocks, and should be easily navigable on foot.
By car you will find that people really do park down the center lane of Valencia, but this native doesn't. A popular dinner destination neighborhood, parking is difficult to find in the early evenings; there is a cheap parking garage at 21st Street and Bartlett between Valencia and Mission.
See
- Mission Dolores at 16th Street and Dolores Avenue.
- Women's Building MaestraPeace Mural [18th btwn Valencia/Guerrero] celebrates its 10th anniversary in 2004; the 25th Anniversary of the Women's Building.
- Precita Eyes Murals all around the Mission neighborhood.
Theatres
- Roxie Cinema, 3125 16th Street, San Francisco, CA 94103. An independent art-film theatre.
- The Marsh Theatre, a Breeding Ground for New Performance, 1062 Valencia Street @ 22d Street, San Francisco, CA 94110. 415 826-5750. Playwriting workshops, performances, a youth program, and classes. Some excellent one-person shows have been hatched out in the Marsh.
Eat
- Ti Couz 3108 16th Street @ Valencia, San Francisco, CA, 94110, tel. 415 252-7373. M-W 11-11, Th-F 11a-Midnight, Sat 10a-Midnight, Sun 10a-11p. Best Breton creperie west of the Atlantic Ocean.
- Taqueria Cancun 2288 Mission at 19th Street, San Francisco, CA 94110, tel. 415 550-1414, M-Th 10a-11:30p, F-Sat 10a-1a)
- Timo's 842 Valencia Street @ 19th/20th, San Francisco, CA 94110, 415 647-0558. M-Th 6pm-10:30p, F-Sat 6pm-Midnight for dinner, bar remains open for dining guests. Lunch may be arranged for parties of 20 or more. Festive, tasty, flamenco dancing on Sundays. Special order your paella for two a day in advance.
- Herbivore Vegetarian Restaurant, 983 Valencia Street bwtn 20th/21st, San Francisco, CA 94110, 415 826-5657. Sun-Th 9a-10p, F-Sat 9a-11p.
- Serrano's Pizza 3274 21st Street btwn Valencia/Mission, 415 695-1615, Sun-Th 11a-Midnight, F-Sat 11a-1a. Best slice of pizza in town. By "slice" for under $3 or add toppings for a few cents more, they mean a fresh-to-your order triangular slice-shaped pizza that overlaps a dinner plate at three points. Free delivery. Cash or credit, no checks.
- Jay's Cheesesteak 3285 21st Street btwn Valencia/Mission, San Francisco, CA 94110, tel. 415 285-5200. Daily 11a-10p. Niman Ranch beef, or seitan veggie/vegan sandwich options. Garlic fries!!
- Foreign Cinema 2534 Mission Street @ 21st, San Francisco, CA 94110. 415 648-7600. Dinner and a movie. The Laszlo Bar. A little splurgey and quite fine. Reservations recommended.
- Boogaloo's [Valencia at 22d] Your basic (fabulous) breakfast/brunch bistro. Worth the wait you'll find on weekends.
- We Be Sushi 1071 Valencia Street between 21st/22d, San Francisco, CA 94110. The best of a handful of locations of this restaurant, truly "sushi like mom used to make".
- Lucca Ravioli Company [Valencia at 22d] An old-world style Italian deli/dry goods grocery who, bless them, sell ingredients. Check out the Ferlenghetti poem over the door while getting your sheet-pan pizza, sliced turkey, good wine and tiramisu.
- Valencia Whole Foods [Valencia at 21st Street] Daily 8:30a-9p. Organic produce and groceries, good bulk foods, and a deli with organic salads, middle eastern foods, and sandwiches to order. A neighborhood essential.
- Bi-Rite Grocery [18th Street bwtn Guarrero and Dolores Park]. How do they get that much good produce and that incredible deli counter into that storefront? Essential neighborhood and picnic-in-the-park resource. Dolores Park is handily enough a block away, and you're likely to find festivals, rallies, or the SF Mime Troupe at the start and close of their summer touring season, there along with kids, dogs and tennis players.
Drink
- 26 Mix.
- Dalva.
- Skylark.
- Liquid.
- Phoenix.
- The Liberties, 22d and Guerrero, San Francisco. Irish Pub. Excellent late weekend brunch no one knows about.
- Uptown.